Sunday, April 29, 2012

The New Wave of Bengali Cinema and Directors

So is this the 3rd or 4th coming ? Bimal Roy came first.. Does not matter if he made  Hindi movies after a few initial ones in Bengali - they were like nothing else being churned out at that time. Do Bigha Zameen, Bandini, Sujata and my personal favorite - Madhumati. Then of course, the Ray  renaissance. The emperor holds court. That is the second. Same time - one level lower -  Ritwick Ghatak, Mrinal Sen and Tapan Sinha. Somehow, I cannot place them in the same category as Ray. Then comes the 3rd generation - Gautam Ghosh, Buddhadeb and Rituporno.



And now the 4th -  a lot of new directors - many of them from outside India.  Aniruddha Roy Chowdhury is my favorite of these new directors and I like all the 3 movies that he has made - having seen bits and pieces of the 3rd and Anuranan and Antaheen. There are some other movies like Ballygunge Court that are good too and they capture important social issues. Movies like Autograph are quite refreshing as well.

Things that I like -  crisp editing, a modern outlook in tune with the times, mature, modern sense of humour. And yet, retaining the fine nuances of emotions and role plays that makes for involving drama.

Cons - at times extremely slow, meandering and literally requiring a push. Like the extreme focus on chat sessions in Antaheen. And meaningless dialog in Anuranan.  Sometimes also - in an attempt to convey modernity - the scenes degenerate to extreme artificial ism. Like the totally made up  acts of endearment between Indraneil and Nandana in Autograph. Surprisingly, the play between Prosenjit and Nandana is much more natural in the same movie.

Still some time to go before these directors move into the next level - I would say that of Rituporno or Gautam Ghosh. Rituporno's Dosar was tone perfect for me. I like most of his movies - to me they come very close to very well made, balanced cinema. No wonder most of  his movies win awards !


Saturday, April 28, 2012

The Myth of the Packaged Masala in Indian Grocery Stores.....

....is that it is the tool of the "fakibaj" !!

Yes -  it is a myth all right. Somehow, many of us refuse to accept the authenticity of the dish unless all the spices have been gathered fresh,component wise and lot of labor has gone in to measuring, mixing and grinding  them. Somewhere within all this is the age old concept of "no cuts, no glory " !! 



I don't agree. I think packaged masalas - like Shan, MTR, Parampara and Rasoi - really make our lives easier. Wifey and me have found many of them extremely convenient and effective in making several dishes that are really high on flavor and authenticity rivalling some of the best I have ever tasted.  Yes there are some that are plain bad !! Ever tried the Rogan Josh masalas ?? I have tasted authentic Rogan Josh and I don't think it is possible to come anywhere close to it using pre-packaged masalas ! Ditto for all the Goan Fish Curry Masalas - just liberal dosage of the cocount oil or coconut whatever does not and will not bring in the flavor which you will get in a Gajali, Dakshin or Konkan Gomantak in Mumbai, leave alone the divine dishes which I have had at my Konkani friends' places!

I think you taste success when the masala adds on to the 'original home cooked'  flavor - rather than completely over powering  it. To that extent,  one common trick seems to be - always use 70% of what is recommended on the packet. And use your creativity !! The results may be really surprising !!


Here are some example that we find really useful to stir up wonderful stuff. Please add or critique with some suggestions so that this becomes an ever expanding list !

  • Shan Fish Biryani - my wife has a secret recipe for Salmon Biryani using this in some measure and hopefully she will share it one day. I will give you one example of how spectacular it comes out. Many years back, we had some friends from work at our house. For the non veggies, there was Fish Biryani. For veggies, Veg Biryani and lot of other good stuff. And yet the pucca vegetarians insisted on trying the fish biryani - minus the fish - so enamored they were with the fragrance of the dish.  and actually ate platefulls of the same even after we had indicated that the rice and fish was prepared together ! No kidding !!
  • Rasoi Paneer Butter Masala Mix - I do  a really good version of the Paneer Butter Masala with this - and I daresay it tastes as good or even better than the one in Sagaar in Kolkata or Baujee Ka Dhaba in Hauz Khas village !! Just use the masala in moderation and follow a different approach to getting the thickened texture of the gravy. Basically, do a homemade tomato puree and mix the masala, puree and milk in the magic bullet. And an extra dash of butter spooned in at the end (don't churn the dish with it !!).
  • Shan Sheekh Kabab Masala - can work wonders but use in moderation - not just the masala but also the advice on the packet on the meaures for ghee, eggs et al. I go really high up on my wife's 'nice list' when I prepare this.  I do this with both 91% fat- free sirloin and lamb (not together !). About 70% of the recommended measure on the masala and 50% on the other ingredients. 400 degree in the oven. Turn over after 25 mins and then 5-10 mins depending on how you want it - crumbling inside the mouth after first bite or a more supple version.
  • Parampara Chicken Achari - difficult to like Parampara as all their masalas taste the same to me ! I don't know - maybe that is their philosophy - get the taste differentiation in through the other ingredients !! But try the Chicken Achari - go 120% on the yogurt portion when you mix it. Outcome, really good, spicy dry chicken without overpowering heat or masala taste.
  • Shan Gajar Halwa - this one is really good, as long as you remember to go 50% on the measure for ghee and about 75% for sugar !! I don't like gajar halwa where the ghee drips off the spoon. It should provide the taste and smell - but should not convert the dish to an oily, ghee filled mess. Easy to understand - this is how 70% of the  ghee infused sweets taste in the Brijwasis, Haldiram's and Tewaris in Kolkata !!
  • Gits Idli and Upma Mix - much better than the ready mix that you find in Indian groceries in US - all of them are laced with preservatives.
  • MTR Tawa Fry - my mother makes a wonderful tawa fry dish of large okra split lengthwise and stuffed with this and some other goodies.

Sunday, April 22, 2012

Pohela Boishakh /Noboborsho in US


Pohela Boishakh in Houston Durga Bari - 2012


When I was growing up in India, Pohela Boishakh was a day to chill out. Wear new clothes,  seek blessings of elders, go out and meet relatives, eat out. And in the evenings - go out with friends and manage to have a conversation with someone you have been admiring for a while, maybe ! Kind of a day where the leash on teenagers was loose and relaxed !

In Houston this year, this become a day of religious festivities. And I really liked it. I think the reason is that Houston has a Durga Bari which acts as a hub of gathering for all important dates in the Bengali calendar. There was special Pujo and Aroti (see the image above) and even Anjali - where we all prayed together seeking the blessings of Mother for the new year ahead. Also, the stage of life I am in makes this a significant day. This year, Pohela  Boishakh became a milestone, an inflexion point - for the realization that another year goes by, more responsibilities are coming in, kids are growing up and so on. And Blessings from above are required more than ever before !

Saturday, April 21, 2012

Chingri Macher Malai curry and the Perfect wine pairing





It resides right up there in the pantheon of Bengali dishes. Secret recipe passed down from generation to generation. The signature dish of an expert in Bengali cooking !  Not to be cooked on any ordinary day with dal and bhat - but saved for special occasions - like Jamaishoshti (a "son-in-law"s day celebrated by Bongs akin to Father's Day or Mother's day !) or when relatives were being invited for a feast.


I am very fortunate to grow up in a family where both my grandmothers, several of my aunts and last but never the least - my mother - were and are legendary practitioners of the culinary arts !! Sorry if this sounds prosaic - but that's what happens to a typical Bengali gastronome when we speak of good food. Bengali food. And I remember that in times past, this one dish used to take a lot of time to prepare. Lot of delicate calibration and effort and control of heat and so on. And when done - nirvana when consumed with fragrant, steaming white rice.


I think a couple of things decide which way this dish will go - to the spacious corners of your tummy or the Glad Bags under the kitchen sink ! The texture and thickness of the gravy, the extent of spiciness (jhal) that you may want and the condition of the prawns. I really like the gravy to be plenty and yet thick, sweet and yet with a tang of spice in it. And the prawns need to be just perfect - not overcooked. Most important - there should be one unique flavor wherever you dip your spoon !


Back to the present. So we have about 30 mins to get this ready and our food sources are the Indian stores and local HEB, Kroger or WalMart. Here is something that worked out well and was surprisingly easy to prepare. Wifey added the master touch at the end (its her secret and she agreed to share !)  - and it was fantastic when paired with Basmati rice and washed down with  a good wine.


What you need -


  1. 1 lb prawns (the 16-20 /lb variety). Take the ones that are deveined but have the head on. Do not refreeze prawns. And please - no cooked prawns !
  2. Coconut Milk - 14 oz can - I like the Goya brand a lot.
  3. Red onion - 1 large.
  4. Ground coconut - 1/2 cup.
  5. Ground Cinnamon - 1 TSP. We use the Costco variety.
  6.  Good quality Ghee (we like the  Bengali Ghee that you find in Bangla Bazaars) - 1-2 TSP.
  7. Other spices - Haldi, ginger paste - all 1 TSP.
  8. 3-4 green chillies.
  9. Garam Masala - 1 TBSP. Go for a  good brand of Garam Masala
  10.  Bay Leaves-2.
  11. Red Chili Powder - 1 TSP or more if you want it more spicy.
  12.  A much better alternative to the store Garam Masala- A little bit of Cardamon, Cinnamon sticks and cloves. Roast and grind to form your own version of Garam Masala.


Onto the Cooking process -


  • Marinating the Prawns - use streaming cold water for 5 mins to defrost them. Don't try to remove the ice by hand as the prawns will crack. Remove the shell covering the body and I prefer to retain the head - it adds more flavor. Else you can remove the head as well. Important - use a paper towel to pat dry them. Add 1/2 tsp of Haldi to about 1 lb of prawns,add about 1/2 tsp of salt,  mix well (use the fingers !!)  and leave them for 10-15 mins.
  • Frying the Prawns - 2-3 TBSP of oil in non-stick deep skillet.. Don't go beyond 2-3 mins on medium heat. The color will turn to an opaque white. Remove them as the pink tinge appears. Don't worry - they WILL get cooked eventually if not already done.Retain any remaining oil in the pan.
  • Preparing the Curry -  Heat about 2 TBSP of canola or vegetable oil  in the same skillet. Add 2 medium sized bay leaves, 1 TBSP of ground ginger and 1 ground red onion and mix well on medium heat until the onions lose their color. Add about 1/2 TSP of salt and 1 TSP of red chili powder to the skillet  and mix well with the onions. Now add about 1/2-3/4 cup of water and the Coconut milk and mix well until the gravy comes to boil. Add the shrimp, cover and cook for 6 mins on low to medium heat,. The Steam will help soften the shrimp and will also cook them optimally. Remove the cover 1-2 times and run your spatula through the gravy to mix it well. And do dip a spoon in and taste the gravy. If you want sweet, this is a good time to add about 1-2 TSP sugar
  • Finishing Touch -  Without removing from the flame, open the cover. Add 1/2 -3/4 cup of ground coconut and mix well. Add 1 TSP of the garam masala - preferably the home prepared version. Add 2 TSP of ghee. I like to add about 3 chillies-split down the middle -  at this time which gives a nice tang to the dish. Add 1-2 TSP of cinnamon powder - this gives an awesome flavor to the dish. Mix it all well in the skillset one last time - and we are ready !!
 A word about the Wine pairing - try the white Moscato or a Good Riesling.  Barefoot has a White Moscato which is sweet and just pitch perfect for this dish.